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On the trail of the expedition: "Baikal Stonehenge" and other mysteries of the Sacred Lake - 2

September 22 2005
14:35

Baykal ( started reading here )

We got to Lake Baikal is the dead of night, and loading the ship passed under the light ship searchlights. When everything was ready to take off in front of us in the sky suddenly appeared a giant disk of white color, similar to the moon or the sun. But the moon adorned in a completely different side, and the sun has long been the village. Someone jokes about UFOs and then disappeared like a strange object in the sky. This could be interpreted as a sign of what lies ahead of us waiting for an anomalous zone. But to focus on their plates no one was going, as traumatized "flying dishes," heads among us, fortunately, has not appeared, and it presaged a sober approach to our research.

The next morning the Holy Sea in all its glory. We walked along the picturesque shore, very smacks of the Mediterranean coast. But everything was much more beautiful and unspoiled: on the beach there is not only hotels, but even at home are extremely rare. On this comparison, with no end in Antalya. The sun gently caressing our faces and the breeze blows small waves on the tranquil sea. But we came here not to rest. Everyone is in anticipation of meeting with a mysterious cape Ryty.

Our Captain Alexander Burmeister told that the previous expedition has behaved very strange. After landing on the shore, its members really well and did not see anything - no tours, no walls or anything else. Then appeared on the Internet story was free paraphrase versions of people who actually saw what was then called "Baikal Stonehenge" . Instead, the story is replete with tales about giant bees, insoles, which are needed to cut off and the other psevdoanomalnoy nonsense .

But until Rytogo was still quite a long time to go, and the captain decided to make a stop at the village Onguren that in the Buryat language means "the end of the road." Whose path ended here to find out it was not possible. But go to the village, which was three kilometers from the coast, we have agreed with pleasure. Still, our expedition is known as an ethno-ecological, and miss the unique opportunity to get to a secluded Buryat village do not want to miss. In addition, as a rule, in such separated from the rest of civilization villages and are living people who have always helped me in my studies, telling old stories and legends that have not found traces in the scientific literature.

Being in constant philosophical conversations about the fate of the world, we can easily overcome the flowery path. At the entrance to the village waiting for us the first surprise - standing alone in the middle of a small area of the engine, dramatically out of the picture with the outside world. His moved here from the taiga in the late forties of the last century. And where did he come in the impenetrable forests, remains a mystery, even for local Aboriginal people. Last pretty friendly people, although some of them are podshofe, despite the early morning hours. All welcome our captain, who has lived here for some time, until moved to Irkutsk.

In Ongurene live about five hundred people. At home, in osvnovnom - hut. But the school stands out. As it turned out, first appeared a century ago. It was built over the village.New meets all modern requirements. Electricity Ongurene not. There are diesel, which include the evening.

Asks ongurentsev of Rytom. All enigmatic smile and talk about the same. Go there, is not desirable. Women in general can not. To our question "why". The answer is simple - many women become infertile after a visit to the island, and some did die. Men also go there without special needs do not go. Even the cattle now graze there only in winter. When he learned that with us going Ryty Olkhon shaman Valentin, advised to comply with its recommendations. Shamans, incidentally, themselves reach a certain place in the fold (valley) and then a single step.

Returning to the ship, asking for Valentine, when and by whom was banned. The shaman says that he knows his race to 19 tribes, and none of his ancestors also did not know the causes of the taboo. But reiterated that it is better with this site are not joking, payback will come quickly. He himself was on the Cape a few times and knows him pretty well.

All expedition members heed the Sham and our anthropologist Helen matchmaker, really wanted to get to Cape grustneet eyes. But to violate a local law is not going to.

And here it is - a mysterious cape Ryty. Nature here has tried their best. For a flat valley stretches Cape cleft between two majestic mountains, forests are dressed in a variety of colors. An idyllic quiet contemplation of untouched nature violates the cry of a sheep, which we carry with them to the slaughter. He is to become part of a ritual to placate the Spirit of Place. My soul revolts against such barbarity. But for the sake of the success of the expedition humbly move the sacrifice and preparing to step on the long-awaited shore along with other members of the expedition.

See an exclusive photo report of the author about the expedition here and here .

To be continued.

See also:

Yoki.ru reveal the secret of Baikal: the details of the expedition to Cape Ryty.

Valentin Hagdaev: orthodox shaman in the center of the metropolis .

Pilgrimage to the bicycle saddle. The "Temples of Russia". Report.

And other materials heading "Activities" .

Константин Дятлов

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